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Forums / Restoration / Brightwork maintenance advice  
The discussions for this thread include the following:

Posted: 22 Aug 2011 at 10:25am
Hi all!
My wife Nancy and I, sail-psyched new owners of Cove Dweller, would like some advice on maintaining the brightwork. It looks good now, but some narrow parts need work , and we would like to keep it up going forward. Any info appreciated! We are not retired, by the way, and like most folks, enjoy sailing more than sanding, but are flexible!

Posted: 06 Sep 2011 at 10:55pm
Hi Mike, I, like you, am not retired and would not prefer to have to do a lot of sanding. I have been restoring my teak cockpit floor boards which were varnished. Stripping, scraping and sanding for 8 hours so far and another 4 hours to go to have it ready to finish. I am not going to use any varnish, as I will be doing the same thing in 2-3 years if I do and there is alot more brightwork to do. Therefore I am going with teak oil over a 330 sanded teak. If the wood starts to lose its color, wipe it down with another coat and you're done. In 2 years I can clean it with Simple Green Marine, lightly sand it and re-oil.
I have done some small pieces of brightwork already with the teak oil and the results are beautiful. I am using Watco Teak Oil.

Posted: 07 Sep 2011 at 3:44pm
Thank you, this has been very helpful~! I am not planning on stripping what is looking good, just resanding and oiling the wood that needs it. I hope it doesn't look too different from the existing varnished wood. But again...I'm not going to strip everything because we learned how to SAIL and I want to SAIL. Thanks!

Posted: 25 Sep 2011 at 7:30am
Can't wait til next Summer when #204 will make her first sail as Prodigal. We own boats more for the enjoyment of sailing, but Fall and Winter in central NY is a perfect time for restoration. The use of a Dremel corner sander has been invaluable in the stripping of my cockpit floor boards. The varnish dried to big drips on the bottom and what a mess to clean up. Sprayable stripper works well with the metal stripper attachment, however using it on any wood attached to the deck would be a no-go unless you taped the decking--it will take deck paint off as well. Smooth sailings!

Posted: 02 Jun 2012 at 10:22pm
One product we have used through out the restoration of #204 is Sikkens Cetol Natural teak. Excellent product and easy to use. We like to rub it in for 2-3 coats. Leaves the teak protected and definitely attractive to the eye!

Posted: 12 Jun 2012 at 11:43am
Hi all
A few days ago I got a question on this subject - painting an old toe rail - and asked Jay Picotte (Recovery)

He is the Curator at the Museum of Yachting, and before that worked at the International Yacht Resoration School in Newport. Anyway, he is a PRO in this game. He has a teak topped fiberglass coaming that he has painted to look like wood, plus has painted his toe rail. I asked him what he used

Here is his answer "Petit brightwork brown and z-spar teak brown are what I've used but recently I've seen a paint by Epifanes that I like much better, not sure of the color name". Pictures on Recovery's page

Ron (webmaster)

Posted: 05 Jul 2012 at 3:56pm
Has anyone else used teak oil instead of varnish on their brightwork? Our Yankee doesn't have teak floorboards in the cockpit, but we do have trim and some other areas that have to be maintained. So I'm deciding-strip all the varnish and switch to teak oil or spot sand/varnish. Any photos?

Posted: 06 Jul 2012 at 11:43am
I just finished a complete restoration of #204 Prodigal and used Cetol Natural Teak. I had intended to use teak oil, but heard good things about Cetol. Varnish may work on parts that can be removed easily such as companionway entry slats and tiller, but removing varnish is perhaps the most difficult part of refinishing unless you love torture. The Cetol has faded a little in the direct sun after a month, but another coat brings the color right back to new and is easy to brush or wipe on. Teak oil will not add any color to the older teak, and the Cetol adds a reddish tone that is quite attractive. Good luck. You can use teak oil under the Cetol as well so if you want to start with teak oil no harm done.

Posted: 12 Apr 2013 at 11:27am
Hey Prodigal!
How has the Cetol held up since we last communicated?

Posted: 12 Apr 2013 at 12:28pm
Also:belt sander or orbital?

Posted: 13 Apr 2013 at 12:21pm
I have used teak oil on my boat Spectra, but I don't care for the final look - makes the wood look very dark.

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